Hey Bubba, hole ma beer . . .

An assortment of tips and tricks.

Tracing.
In many places the plans have you trace a template. Rather than cut up my set of "M" plans, I trace them onto a sheet of drafting velum (GOOGLE search for Clearprint, one brand name) using the tools in the picture to the right. The flexible curve is quite handy, probably has a core of lead, or lead alloy. Most of the tools rest slightly above the paper, allowing me to fine tune the pencil line by rocking it away from vertical as I draw. Especially handy when you're using the french curve. Also handy is a mechanical drafting pencil. The ones that have a metal sleeve that will follow the edges of your tools, rather than the lead resting against it. Mine uses 0.5mm leads, I find it adequate.

Once drawn and double checked, I spray one light coat of Scotch "77" adhesive on the back side. Let this dry a minute for wood templates, and longer (15+ minutes) if attaching to foam. You don't want any of the adhesive to transfer to the foam, screwing up your epoxy bonds or melting the foam (read: 1050 lb. lawn dart).

For the wing jigs and wing core templates, I'll grab me a roll of velum (it's available in rolls too), and trace from my extra set of "M" plans so I can avoid making mulch out of them too.

Slurry (foam).
Don't make it too stiff. A 50/50 micro-balloons/epoxy ratio seems about right. Less bubbles for urethane (NACA scoop) IMHO. Make sure it's good and warm (and thin), and squeegee it well into the pores of the foam, removing as much excess as you can.

Filling bubbles, after cure.
Check out your local farm/ranch store (unless you live in NYC?). You can get hypodermic syringes and needles for cheap. I find a 16cc syringe with an 18 ga needle about ideal. Clean it with vinegar (then strong soap/water mix), and you can get two or three uses before the rubber plunger swells. Drill a vent hole for larger bubbles, and do use your hot air blower to help the epoxy flow.