Cutting the cores was a non event, mostly. Round up some scraps of wing foam and cut the blanks to a parallelogram shape. Don't forget to flip-flop the hot wire templates as well as the foam for second winglet. Have your hot wire saw dialed in when cutting the lower winglet. The lower template is much smaller than the upper, it's easy to cook the foam.
Skinned per plans, use the clothes pins and straight angle iron trick to keep the trailing edge straight. Copper foil antenna installed, a length of coax was cut to reach at least a foot inside the wing root. The plan (and according to the plan!) is to have a coax connector just inside the main spar.
Working by myself, I rough jigged the winglet to the wing to find/mark the line the wing tip needs to be cut. I used a few drops of hot-melt glue until I knew everything was perfect. Once everything measured out to plans, I used a bead of flox (in prep for later layups) at the wing and winglet joint.
"Bottoms up!" and proceed to auger out the foam for the inner layups. I found an 1/8" drill bit in my Dremel made relatively short work of getting down to the wing glass for a good bond. A thin taper of a sanding stick helped too ;-) I was doubly careful to get down to the glass and remove all traces of slurry, as there was a recent incident of a winglet breaking loose. Note I have what appears to be a second coax cable in the middle picture. It's actually a vinyl chase leading up to the top of the winglet. I plan on putting my anti collision and position lights up there. LED's of course! Light weight, long life, low current, and should be snarky.
Interior layups per plans, exterior layups to plans, instaled the bottom winglet according to plans too. During a two week cure, I pre-filled and contoured the winglet. I knew that once I cut the rudders out and installed the hinges, contouring would be a little harder.
Rudders were installed much like the ailerons were. Clic-Bond studs slightly recessed and a one ply BID laid over. Then aviation pop rivets on the other leaf, also recessed. Recessed to get through the micro pre-fill and down to the glass! You can see an assortment of shims and whiz-ma-bangs I used to keep the rudder in alignment untill the flox cured in the picture to the right.
In the wing chapter I mentioned I installed a second conduit for a future hidden bellhorn install. Since I'm using Clic-Bond studs to hold the rudders on, adding a hidden rudder bellhorn will be a problem. You need the rudders to swing out a lot to install the nuts onto the clic-bond studs, can't really do this with a hidden bellhorn. Oh well, maybe...
That's it, weez dun!